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What comes to your mind, when you think of Nicargua? Do you think of perfectly shaped volcanic cones emerging from the huge expanse of a sea-like lake? Do you think of colourful crafts and evocative poetry? Or maybe perfectly preserved colonial architecture, among the finest to be found anywhere in Latin America? Do you think of pristine picture perfect beaches with palm trees wafting in the mild evening breeze and framing the psychedelic sunset? Or perhaps of thick primary rainforest, teeming with bird- and wildlife? Or, do you associate Nicaragua with its woeful recent past of political conflict and the contra-affair? Indeed this period of history has been very significant for the local population. Though for the rest of the world it seems as though a cloak of obscurity has been shrouding this country. And it is only just re-emerging.
This 'off-limits' status has been both, a bane and a blessing for Nicaragua. A bane because the isolation it brought left the country impoverished. It became the poorest country in Central America. But the blessing has been that Nicaragua has managed to preserve its authenticity and remained largely untouched by the greedy hands of ravenous developers who have brought so much mindless and destructive development to neighboring countries. Now Nicaragua is emerging as one of the best places for authentic, sustainable, low impact tourism in Central America, not only rich in wildlife rarely seen in other countries, but also boasting a rich cultural heritage that is particularly proud of its poetry. Indeed, poetry seems to be the song of the Nicaraguan soul. The saying goes that every Nicaraguan is a poet until proven otherwise.
Folk artisans are also well-known throughout the region for their colorful and imaginative works - and last but not least, Nicaraguan cuisine can be described as a blend of art and poetry - arguably the finest that Central America has to offer.
Nicaragua is the largest country of Central America, yet most of it remains well off the beaten track. The best known and most visited areas are the highlands that run parallel to the Pacific coast, as well as the Pacific coast itself. But there is far more to be discovered just off the well trodden paths...
Managua is the business nerve center of Nicaragua. Managua was chosen as the country's capital as a compromise between the rivaling cities of Leon and Granada. Unfortunately the particular piece of earth on which the city is built is highly unstable with over 30 seismically active lines running beneath it. Thus, it comes as no surprise that the city is frequently shaken by earthquakes, which is why today few of its historic buildings have survived. There was a devastating earthquake in 1931 and another one in 1972 which destroyed much of the historic city center. Thus, today Managua resembles a sprawling suburb more than an actual city. This makes it difficult for travelers to find their bearing. The best thing about it is its relatively convenient location, which gives easy access to some of the more attractive sights nearby.
Nearby Nature Reserves include Montibelli, a private reserve that was set aside on a once huge shade-grown coffee finca in the hills south of Managua (Sierra de Managua). Today the finca still grows some coffee, but has mostly been converted to tropical fruit production. The majority of its land has been set aside as a wildlife sanctuary. It is a great place for bird watching. There are a few trails that can be explored on your own or with a guide.
21.5 km on the Carretera a Ticuantepe. A small reserve, with few trails, but a great place to watch Pacific Parakeets, which nest in small holes in the cliffs behind the waterfall.
Not far from Managua lies Masaya, an area that is well known for its folk traditions. This is an area where fiestas are taken seriously and were artisan arts and crafts thrive. Masaya has the biggest arts and crafts market in all of Nicaragua, but its fame extends beyond the borders. This centre of traditional life also relishes its festivals and fiestas - there is something to celebrate every month. Enquire with the tourist board.
This amazing smoking caldera is one of the most easily accessible and active volcanoes in the Americas and one of only 4 volcanoes on earth that maintains a constant level of lava in its crater. The whole park is in fact situated within the crater of an extinct volcano, the 'Ventarron' which erupted sometime around 4550BC. However, there are still plenty of active vents and eruptions still occur. In 1872 there was one that lasted 8 solid days. Visiting this volcano certainly conveys a sense of how fragile the earth crust really is, and how much gurgling goes on beneath. To the Christian conquistadors this fuming pit represented the gates of hell. Despite the desolate, ravaged moonscape, there is plenty of surreal and tenacious wildlife to be found here that can be discovered via the park's trail system.
Through the hills south of Masaya runs a road known as 'Carretera a Los Pueblos' which leads to some of the most interesting villages of Nicaragua. A region that is populated by people of Chorotegas descent, one of the group of native inhabitants of Nicaragua that is thought to have originated in Central Mexico and settled the region a couple of hundred years before the Spaniards arrived. The Chorotegas are the skillful crafts-people who manufacture all the wonderful goods that can be seen on display at the Masaya crafts market. Each village has its own specialty - one is famous for wood work, another for ceramics, and yet another for textiles or leather work. There are numerous workshops that can be visited and the journey makes for a very interesting cultural experience.
Undoubtedly one of the highlights of Nicaragua - this picturesquely situated colonial city, on the shores of Lago Nicaragua, is said to be one of the best preserved examples of colonial style architecture in Latin America. Granada is a stronghold of conservatism, which has helped to preserve its original features. It has its own style of grandeur and sophistication - though these days it is also a major hub of tourists.
But there is more to Granada than galleries, museums, churches and restaurants. Its setting on Lago Nicaragua is anything if not picturesque. This huge 'inland sea' has several archipelagos of small islands that can be visited from Granada. Las Isletas for example, make for an interesting excursion. The second largest island, Isla Zapatera, is particularly interesting as the ancient home of a mysterious religious cult. There are many ancient petroglyphs and stone sculptures scattered over the forest-clad slopes and ancient tales weave a mysterious veil that engulfs the island.
South of Granada broods the imposing Mombacho volcano, whose slopes are preserved as a nature reserve. The infrastructure and trail system are the best of any park in Nicaragua. The cloud forest here is easy to access and makes for fabulous nature exploration. The summit has five craters, three of which are covered in vegetation. Apart from the prolific fauna and flora, there are also amazing views to be admired - of Granada, Lake Nicaragua and the jewel-like islands below.
Further south, the largest island in Lago Nicaragua presents an archetypal image of volcanic beauty, with the twin peaks of the volcanoes Maderas and Concepcion rising from the lake in perfect symmetry. The islands are a world apart - a relaxed traditional way of life greets the visitor and much of the farming activity here has now turned to organic practices. There are plenty of nature pursuits to be had, such as hiking in the cloud forest, kayaking and swimming - or just immerse yourself in the special ambiance of this hidden corner of the world.
As early as 1567 there were people who did not have the slightest qualms about the prospect of destroying this natural beauty for their own commercial and political interests. Rio San Juan was seriously considered as the site to construct a cross-continental canal to facilitate the passage between the Pacific and the Atlantic. As if protected by supernatural forces, all attempts to destroy it have been thwarted.
The canal was later constructed in Panama and Rio San Juan today remains the mysterious, natural sanctuary that it has always been. This river basin that forms the border with Costa Rica is one of the least disturbed swathes of tropical lowland forest in Central America.
It joins with the huge Reserva Biologica Indio-Maiz and is often referred to as Central America's Amazon. That comparison might be a bit grandiose, but fact is that this vast area has hardly been touched and offers some of the best wildlife experiences in Central America. It is the most extensive piece of virgin (primary) forest that remains in Central America and boasts a staggering range of biodiversity, much of which is yet to be explored and recorded. However, explorations into this area are for hard-core adventurers only as there is nothing in the way of tourist facilities except for some very basic, rustic lodges and ranger stations further down on the San Juan River.
This wetland area borders the southern shores of Lago Nicaragua and the first few miles of Rio San Juan. This is perhaps the best site in the country for bird watching. What makes this site so interesting is the variety of eco-systems that can be encountered within a very small area - small streams and rivers offering innumerable nesting sites, and the convergence of dry and humid forest and rainforest create an ideal habitat for numerous different species of birds and the many small rivers offer a great vantage point for observing the gallery forest.
36 small islands comprise the Solentiname archipelago in the southern part of Lago Nicaragua. The islands are a designated National Monument. Time appears to have stood still here for the last couple of hundred years - there is no electricity, telephone, no running water and no roads - just a simple rural lifestyle that follows its own rhythm. These islands were also once the unlikely site of an interesting social experiment led by a Catholic priest who trained local farmers in certain wood carving techniques and crafts. The training was passed on through the generations and even today these crafts people continue producing their balsa wood sculptures, which have gained international acclaim.
Nicaragua is blessed with an extensive and mostly wild coast line. Some, especially the beaches near Managua, have long been popular as seaside escapes for city dwellers or sites beach front properties for the rich and famous. But miles more remains pretty much untouched. They are also mostly little cared for, though beach front hotels usually at least clean their beaches.
The southern Pacific beaches in particular are the site of one of the most enigmatic natural events - the arribadas or nesting of the sea turtles.
This town on the southern Pacific coast is the most developed tourist spot on the coast. Presently development is in its infancy, but ravenous property investors are out to grab what they can of this wild beautiful coast and turn it into a private playground of the rich, with gated communities and all.
Long the rivaling counterpart of Granada, it is hard to say which of these cities possesses more charm. Both are jewels in terms of their colonial architecture, and while Granada is perhaps more picturesquely situated on Lago Nicaragua, Leon is the undisputed cultural and intellectual hub of the country. It has the biggest university and a steady influx of young, hungry minds that come here to study and add to the city's vibrant feel.
This little visited region of Nicaragua provides an insight into the rural life. Much of the highlands are dominated by coffee farms, one of Nicaragua's most important export items. Laudably, some fincas are specializing in shade grown, organic coffee and some have set aside part of their land as a private nature reserve. Ecotravel opportunities exist in the form of 'agri-tourism', where simple cabins are available to rent on the fincas and activities include not only tours of the farm, but also to their private nature reserve. The cloud forest here is easily accessible and provides and makes for a great spot for bird watching and nature observation.
One of the best such lodges is 'Selva Negra Ecolodge', an exemplary project in sustainability. Everything on the farm is produced organically and everything is recycled. Even the waste water from the coffee processing is collected in tanks and turned into methane gas that is used for cooking, thus eliminating a major source of pollution that is normally a by-product of coffee production.
The Caribbean coast of Nicaragua is practically completely undeveloped. A huge area towards the Honduran border is covered by impenetrable rainforest and small Native communities. Travel in these parts is not entirely safe. Although potential for ecotourism is great, at present it is not even in its infancy.
The greatest attractions on the Caribbean Coast are little and big Corn Island - an archetypal Caribbean Island Dream come true. Little Corn Island has a magnificent Reef just off the coast, which is great for diving and snorkeling. Big Corn Island is a bit more developed and offers more choices of lodgings and more diversions. Little Corn Island unfortunately is also not entirely safe due to the fact that Colombian drug runners have long used it as a refueling stop and there is little in the way of an effective police force to curb crime and drug dealings on the island.
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